Tag Archives: Via de la Plata

Walking in Spain and Italy

Now that I have completed two long walks in Europe, I thought it would be interesting to compare the experiences. In the spring of 2015, I walked about 650km along the Via Francigena from Piacenza to Rome and in autumn 2016 I walked around 1,000km from Seville to Santiago de Compostela along the Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés.

Both are pilgrimages following the approximate route of very old paths. In Spain, the route follows that of the ancient Roman road for much of the way and was also the route taken by Christians from Arab Spain, or Mozárabos,  to Santiago. The modern Via Francigena follows the route from Canterbury to Rome described by  Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his diary from the year 990. The pilgrimages were to the tombs of apostles – Saint Peter in Rome

Saint Peter statue Berceto
And Saint James in Spain.

Santiago oldest statue Santa Marta de Terra
Medieval memories like these can be seen along the way in both countries.

Walking along the Via de la Plata I heard someone call out “Buen Camino!”to me many times and on more than a few occasions, people offered advice about the rouite ahead or told me if I’d taken a wrong turn. In Italy, the pilgrimage route is much less well known and recognition by people I passed by is much less common. Having said that, there were still some lovely experiences. For example at Avenza, the local bar gave free breakfast to pilgrims, something I never experienced in Spain.

Sign posting along the Via de la Plata is quite comprehensive with offical signage provided by the various Regional Governments supplemented by unofficial signage in various forms. For example. in Extremadura, cubes indicate the way ahead.

Extremadura Via de la Plata cube

The shell symbol is ubiquitous.

Camino Sanabrés sign

and yellow arrows have been painted all over the place.

Camino Sanabrés yellow arrow

There are also all sorts of unofficial and miscellaneous signage.

Via de la plata

In Italy. there is also a system of official signage.

Via francigena sign

However, these can be confusing as often the route indicated may be the “scenic” one for weekend walkers going up and down mountains rather than pilgrims , or even refer to the route for cars. There are many stretches without official signs. Often local groups have provided various forms of unofficial signage. In some areas such groups or local towns have even provided rest areas and first aid kits! Where this hasn’t happened, it was possible in 2015 to walk for many hours without seeing any signs. This is where a GPS or a good map becomes very handy.

Via Francigena back of sign

Via Francigena sign

I’ve given more  examples of these signs in a previous post.

The two walks are linked via pathways through France. In 2015, I met one intrepid young pilgrim walking from Rome to Santiago, probably a 3 month walk.

Santiago to the left, Rome to the right!


On both routes, a pilgrim’s passport or credenziale/credenciál is used for identification and to obtain a certificate upon ultimate arrival if required.  They are also necessary in both countries to stay in a pilgrim’s hostel or ostello/albergue. In Spain, these can usually be found at convenient intervals, though along the Via de la Plata there are some stages in excess of 30km due to the spacing of villages. In Italy they aren’t quite as common and I found myself staying by necessity in Bed and Breakfasts or cheap hotels occasionally. It’s also a good idea to book ahead in Italy where possible whereas in Spain booking isn’t possible in Spanish Albergues.

Via dea Plata

 

Francigena hostel

Italy is a lot more densely populated country than Spain. Unfortunately this means that there is more walking on the side of busy bitumen roads than on the Via de la Plata. Sometimes these can be a bit scary with heavy traffic.  However, like in Spain, a lot of the walking is on quiet dirt roads and on ancient tracks.

Some examples from Italy –

A scary road

Francigena risky road

A quiet road

Via Francigena

A beautiful path
Via Francigena Tuscany
Via Francigena TuscanyIn Spain, there was a similar mix but with a bit less asphalt walking and with a lot less traffic. There are also often warning signs for both walkers and motorists in sections where you are forced to walk on the edge of the road. This certainly doesn’t exist in Italy !
Hard on the feet and hot!

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There were lots of pleasant dirt roads.

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and some beautiful paths as well.
Via de la Plata
I have to say that you eat a lot better in Italy. Perhaps it’s because the economy is still recovering in the very small Spanish villages in the west, but the food there is quite basic and no matter what I ordered, it always came with chips or fried potatoes.  Apart from Galicia where I encountered some interesting regional dishes, the food was pretty much the same for the entire walk.

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A notable exception was the cheap and very good meal I had with two  pilgrim friends at Rionegro del Puente.

Me gusta comer

A typical Italian home made pasta dish – this was a pilgrim menu. These aren’t as common in Italy as the almost ubiquitous Menú del Peregrino in Spain.

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In Italy you’ll come across a lot of regional specialities , for example boar meat around Siena.

The Via Francigena in Italy is quite hilly and once you get to the Appenines, it’s a rare day without considerable climbing, especially in Tuscany. Some experienced pilgrims I met said that it reminded them of the Via del Norte in Spain.

Via de la Plata TuscanyThe Via de la Plata was a lot flatter  with only occasional climbs. Things got hillier in Galicia but still with less climbing than in Italy.

Via de la Plata
Arriving in Rome is not that pleasant as the last day comprises mainly ugly suburbs. Many people skip the walk and take a train. A very pleasant moment is a short diversion up Monte Mario. This was known to pilgrims in medieval times as Mons Gaudii or the Hill of Joy as from this vantage point the first view of Saint Peters church was possible.


With the large numbers of tourists in St. Peter’s Square, the arrival of pilgrims on foot goes unnoticed. For me it was a very emotional moment as I had started off with no idea of whether I would be able to finish a long walk. A very special experience was getting my Vatican visitor’s pass and entering around the back way past the Swiss Guards to get my Testamonium.


The situation in Santiago de Compostela is quite different as it’s a small town and dealing with pilgrims forms an important activity. For me, arrival this time was something of an anticlimax. The journey had become more important than the arrival.

There was a pleasant view of the cathedral approaching Santiago.


And there is the twice daily pilgrim’s mass, often finishing with the swinging of the giant botafumiero or incense burner.


In both Italy

Via Francigena
and Spain

Via Sanabrés
you will see some beautiful countryside.

Another thing in common is that you’re sure to meet lots of interesting local people and other pilgrims

In both Spain


and in Italy

 

Buen Camino , buona caminata!


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés

After reading Tony Kevin’s book about his pilgrimage along the Via de la Plata almost 10 years ago, I’ve wanted to do the same thing myself. It’s only this year that I’ve had the 6 weeks free that I needed to complete the 1,000km walk. Already, less than a week after completing my walk, it seems like a dream. Another pilgrim I spoke to in Santiago who finished the Via Francés about the same time said exactly the same thing to me.

For anyone thinking about this walk, I’ve collected a few of my photos below to give you a little insight into the route. For me, photography is an important part of a long walk. You get the perfect opportunity to take photos and in just under 6 weeks I took over 4,000.

It can be a bit lonely. I found myself walking alone and often not seeing any other pilgrims all day for maybe 80% of the time, however most nights there were others in the Albergue. Mysteriously some times I would walk  alone for a few days and be the only person in the albergue then arrive one evening to find 15 others who had appeared out of nowhere! For some reason, this walk holds a fascination for some. I met one Irish pilgrim doing it  for the 8th time and an 84 year old from Aosta in Italy doing the Camino Sanbrés for the 9th time.

For me, a fascinating  aspect of the Via de la Plata is the change in landscape, architecture and climate as you traverse Spain from south to north.

The landscape changed significantly .
Via de la Plata

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Via de la Plata

Via de la Plata

Via de la Plata

 

Camino Sanabrés

Camino Sanabrés

The villages I passed through could have been in different countries.

Via de la Plata
Via de la Plata
Via de la Plata


Via de la Plata

Camino Sanabrés

There are lots of animals.

Via de la Plata
Via de la Plata
Camino Sanabrés
Camino Sanabrés
There was some variation in the signage.

Via de la Plata

Via de la Plata
In Extremadura, the way was marked by cubes with colour coding indicating whether or not the path coincided with the ancient roman road.

Via de la Plata

Some days there were innumerable farmer’s gates to pass through.
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Via de la Plata

These signs mimic the ancient Roman milestones seen along the way.

Via de la Plata
Via Sanabrés Camino Sanabrés

Via Sanabrés


Camino Sanabrés

And changes in the food ? Hmmm



Via de la Plata

However my strongest memory will always be the people I met and chatted with along the way. Although I know this is not practical or possible for many, I’m very glad I spent 6 months working hard to resurrect my very rusty Spanish with the help of my teacher Alejandra. I had so many interesting conversations with the very friendly people I met along the way.

Via de la Plata beer


Via de la Plata


Via de la Plata


Camino Sanabrés

Camino Sanabrés
Camino Sanabrés

Also,  as it turned out the 3 people I spent the most time walking with were all Spanish and this wouldn’t have been possible if I hadn’t been able to chat with them in Spanish.

I posted every day during my pilgrimage and you can find many more photos in those posts. ¡Ultreia!

Silleda – Ponte Ulla October 26th

Last night I ran into two Italian guys I hadn’t seen since we were in Salamanca, almost 3 weeks ago. They hadn’t taken any rest days and so were ahead of me but now stopped as one of them was sick. I’m so glad that my health has been good as I’m walking alone

I haven’t had anyone to speak English with for a few weeks now so my head was full of Spanish and I kept using Spanish words by mistake when I spoke to them in Italian.

Today I had a leasurely 20km walk to Ponte Ulla and arrived just in time for lunch!


A lot of the walk was in bitumen but they were quiet country roads.


More nice juicy figs


Those of you who have been following my adventures will have read how I’m  somewhat absent minded and at times miss arrows telling me to take a turn. Here’s a good example! I stopped to take off my jumper this morning and thought it would be nice to take a photo of my backpack resting against a camino sign . Then I charged off down the road and only realised 10 minutes later when I  looked at my GPS that I’d missed a turn. Of course it was the very marker I taken a photo of!


I’ve seen these plants growing alongside the road for many weeks now. They’re called ‘escoba’ or broom plants because of their shape .

Escoba plant

Chestnuts all over the road.

This is the bridge over the river Ulla which gives Ponte Ulla it’s name. In the background is the railway viaduct.


Sopa Gallega for lunch again .


The  washing place was the social centre of the village.


These bananas are trying hard, but I don’t think they’re going to make it with winter on the way.


It’s hard to believe , but I’m only 20km from Santiago. I don’t know what my feelings will be when I arrive tomorrow .

Monasterio de Oseira – Silleda October 25th

The local bar didn't open til 9am so after my night alone in the huge monastery room I had an improvised breakfast and headed off up a steep rocky track out of the valley in which the monastery is situated .
The view looking back gives a bit of an idea of how large the monastery is. My big room was on the ground floor of what looks like a small building on the left.

Via Sanabrés

Even I couldn't miss this turn


but once again I missed a clearly marked turn but this farmer told me I'd  missed the turn. Maybe I subconsiously missed it as the path I had to follow was a mixture of churned up mud and cow pooh.

There were lots of ancient pathways but the recent rain made the rocks slippery .


Look at the beautiful green pasture these cows have to enjoy !


A beautiful old bridge


This will be very familiar to Australians!


I saw a horreo ( see the last few posts) with its door open and it was being stacked with corn. It's interesting that some are still being used for their original purpose.


This is the best scarecrow I've seen


Lunch 


I was so intent on getting lunch that I didn't see that the Camino went off the road a bit before. After a very nice lunch


I blithely headed off down the main road. A very helpful woman ran across the road to point me in the right direction . People have. Been so helpful!



I've put in two big days – all up around 80km and 1,200m of climbing and I can now enjoy two short 20km days to get to Santiago!

Rest Day Ourense October 23rd

Ourense was founded by the Romans partly because of the presence of hot springs . Today it’s a town of around 100,000 making it the biggest town I’ve walked through since Salamanca weeks ago.

In the morning I paid a visit to the cathedral to collect a stamp for my credencial or pilgrim’s passport.

The 13th century Portico of Paradise is stunning.

This is a representation of Santiago Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer which refers to his  legendary, miraculous appearance at the Battle of Clavijo, fighting the Muslim army.

Another reason for the founding of the town was to protect the river crossing . Today there a number of bridges including this medieval one


And this modern one.

The Roma baths were in what is now the centre of the city. There’s still a basic set of baths here 


as well as this fountain where water comes out at 67 degrees C


As I needed to hire everything needed, I took the train 

to a fancier place outside of town where you can hire everything you need. It was a new experience for me to sit in a steaming hot pool out in the rain!

I think the gastronomic low point of my walk was lunch today . I’ve had chips/ french fries so many times and I thought I was getting them again , but these potato chips were straight out of a bag! And the ‘salad’ was a bit of iceberg lettuce with strips of ham on top.

However in the bar, the Phillip Island motorcycle GP in Australia was on TV and that got me talking to the people in the bar about Australia. I was so pleased I could understand just about everything they said after the difficult days trying to understand Manolo. 

Perhaps it was partly because Castilian is probably their second language as many people here have Gallego as their first tongue. It’s a language related to Portuguese . As a simple example, this ‘dogs prohibited’ sign in Castilian would say ‘Perros’ instead of ‘Cans’. The Gallego word comes straight from Latin whilst the origin of the Castilian Perro is a bit uncertain but may represent the sound a dog makes.

I thought I’d never find somewhere to eat dinner . There are lots of bars with people drinking but no one eating . Maybe it’s because it’s Sunday in a provincial town with few tourists . Maybe it all happens after I go to sleep . Finally I found an American style mall with typical mall food .

I’ll close with a few shots of typical buildings. Off to bed now as I have a reasonably long walk tomorrow !

An old pharmacy


Typical enclosed patios


Campobecerros – Vilar de Barrio October 21st

The day started off foggy but when this lifted, it was a fine sunny day .

Via Sanabrés

The first part of the day was a long descent mainly on asphalt to the small town of Laza.

The second half of the day was a long ascent of around 600 metres. It was one of the tracks where you think you’ve reached the top, then the track turns a corner and there’s yet another climb

A pretty little church next to a stream
Via Sanabrés

There were more little villages with old stone houses 

Via Sanabrés

The 28 km to Albergería where we intended to stay tonight took around 7 hours, given the long climb. When we got there the famous bar with hundreds of cockle shells was closed except for the vending machine area and we couldn’t get the key to the albergue. 

Two little old ladies told us the guy would be back soon 


We waited for quite a while and I got very cold as I was wet through with sweat from the climb and the temperature was dropping . We eventually got him on the phone and he told us the albergue was closed . I think I’m lucky with the timing as a lot of the private albergues start to close for the season around the end of October.

So it was back walking to cover the 7 km to the next town which is larger and has a  Xunta or regional government  albergue.


Finally the town in sight !

Vía  de Sanabrés

I saw my first Galician Hórreo or grain store .

The albergue here is quite large and again there’s just the two of us. But there’s no washing line!

Dinner cooked by Carmiña – another tasty Galician soup

Via Sanabrés

A Gudiña – Campobecerros October 20th

We had a pleasant meal together in the albergue last night.


We got off to a bad start today. Despite Manolo asking various people about the way out of town, we charged off following what turned out to be the wrong set of yellow arrows relating to an alternate and longer route via Verin.

After wasting about an hour and walking 5 km extra, we got back on track .

Via Sanabres
Today’s walk was largely on asphalt and it rained for much of the time.

This sign is meant to reduce the level  accidents but it didn’t seem to slow down traffic .


We passed through a number of tiny  hamlets.

Via Sanabrés
Via Sanabrés
I picked a piece of this woman’s rosemary to see if I could smell it. I lost almost all my sense of smell about 4 months ago and I’m hoping these 6 weeks out in the fresh air will help but no luck so far.

When the weather lifted there were some beautiful views.
Via Sanabres
Sanabrés
Given the weather, the late start and the distance to the next albergue, not to mention the 1,000m climb, we decided to have a short day and stop at Campobecerros. This view of the town shows the nearby work on the new high speed railway line that’s part of the same line I came across a number of times a week ago near Zamora.

Campobecerros Via Sanabres
We had a nice late lunch including this tasty Gallego vegetable soup.
Everyone in the bar was fussing over a young boy around 2 or 3 years old. It turns out he is the only child in the village .

Via Sanabrés
Via Sanabrés
A handy little space under the house to keep your goats.

Campobecerros Via Sanabres
The average age of people in this village seems to be very old – a healthy if somewhat quiet place to live!


There seemed to be more cars and dogs than people 


The people across the road from the albergue were trimming their apple tree and gave us some beautiful tasting fruit for the walk tomorrow.


PS – no internet and very low mobile signal here !