Today I didn’t see any other pilgrims, in fact I didn’t see anyone at all. At a few points I saw cars wizzing past but that was it.

After leaving Santa Cristina, the path took me across a corner of the Plain of the Albanians and my first climb began.

From there, I walked through some beautiful but desolate countryside. There were no signs of life, as mechanisation means farmers live in towns.

Abandoned farmhouses that once housed multiple extended families are now abandoned .

There are huge areas with what I think is wild fennel.

The path took me through a fennel forest which was hard going and I had a nasty fall. Then I got to a burnt out area. There have been lots of fires, and I can still see some off in the distance.

‘Fennel Forest’

This area was a major source of wheat in ancient Roman times. Wheat is still cultivated today and also saw melons, tomatoes and grapes.

The Sanctuary of Tagliavia – – all locked up.
Off in the distance is a lookout post, possibly from the Byzantine era.

The second long climb took me up between two massive outcrops of rock.

A field of melons

From here there was a long descent down to the bottom of a valley.

Smoke from fires was visible in the distance.

My heart sank when I realised that I had to climb up the other side to get to Corleone.

Heading down into the valley . I had to climb up the other side.

I liked the way the guide book says ‘ this a may be the most demanding climb of the cammino’ so I’m left in suspense!

It was pretty tough, especially after 7 hours of walking, and I took it very slowly. I actually can’t recall a more challenging day in my 10 years of pilgrimages, but maybe aim just getting old !

I eventually got to my guest house. Everything is spotlessly white. I had to put my boots and backpack out on my verandah, and the host wanted to check to see if my house shoes were acceptable to her .

Servings are huge here. I could barely finish this huge pork knuckle.

My Relive video for today:

https://www.relive.com/view/vE6J5eN2DgO