I decided to get to the pilgrim office this morning before it opened at 8am just to be sure I got my Compostella certificate.
At 7.45 there was already a long queue in the rain.
Before long, the queue behind me was just as long. I got to chat with some people behind me whose accent gave them away as Malaysian.
Soon I was inside with my ticket – number 101, the same as my room number.
There’s now a computerised system that allows you to keep track of how things are going, so I headed off for breakfast . My number came up a few hours later.
At that stage people arriving were getting numbers in the 400s and excitedly looking at the information screen only to see there were 300 ahead of them. Three years ago I just wandered in and queued for half an hour.
And here’s what my credencial looks like.
A lot of people miss out. My Malaysian friends for example weren’t there when their numbers came up.
Others don’t even bother as the memories are the most important thing you get from walking.
Santiago is dominated by its cathedral.
There’s a lot of conservation work underway so the usual pilgrim masses aren’t being held.These are the ropes that are used to swing the giant incense burner traditionally used to try to kill all the fleas etc infesting arriving pilgrims.
Here’s a photo of the burner or botafumeiro in action from my last visit here 3 years ago.
The cathedral is still open and you can go behind the statue of Santiago to ’embrace the apostle’.
One of the interesting medieval capitals.
Here’s a statue of ‘Santiago Matamoros’ or ‘Santiago the Moor Slayer’.
This relates to a story that Santiago appeared at the legendary Battle of Clavijo and assisted in a Spanish victory . It underlines the importance of Satiago in the Spanish identity.
The city is of course awash with souvenirs.
I continue to run into people I met walking. However the strangest was when someone with a vaguely familiar face came up to me and started talking to me in Spanish.
Alfonso was a pilgrim I met in a hostel in Rome 18 months ago just after I’d completed my walk along the Via Romea Germanica and had he’d finished the Via di San Francesco. What a great memory he has!
Santiago has a very attractive old centre.
This is the 19th century Cafe Casino.
Here I ran into Lois who has been walking for over 3 months, mainly sleeping in his tent.
The last time I saw him was 3 days ago in Sobrido. He tried to set up his tent at the monastery albergue but they wouldn’t let him so he checked into a hotel. I don’t think he likes to sleep in a room with others.
Tonight I caught up with my friend Bert whi arrived today and is contining on to Finisterre. Tomorrow it’s back to Bologna, airport protests permitting, to meet up with my wife before we head home to Australia.
You’ve met so many different people and made new friends along these walks Paul. I’ve enjoyed seeing your photos each morning when I wake. Each one is a memory of your time walking, from the little snails to the magnificent cathedral.
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PAUL,
well done. You have taken us with you on another great journey. Thank you for sharing.
John g
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Thanks John. Theres a BBQ scheduled at my place in November following on from one at Wayne’s a few months back. I hope you can make it.
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Congratulations Paul. Well done on completing another adventure and thank you for allowing us to share this amazing experience with you.
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Thanks Megan
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Good luck at the airport today Paul! See you soon ❤️❤️❤️
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Congratulations Paul. Thank you for taking us with you on another Camino. I enjoyed every moment of your blogs- great photos and insightful and interesting comments. When is your next trip. My love to Miss Cathy,
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Hi Vicky thanks so much for all your comments. I’m still thinking about the next one
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Paul; I have loved reading your blog and lingering in your evocative photos for the last month after meeting you on the del Norte during your first few days. It’s helped keep me in touch with the slower pace and attentiveness walking brings. Enjoy your final days in Europe with your wife.
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Thanks so much for you lovely comments Karen. I hope you get to continue your walk at some stage.
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Way to go! Years after our Camino, our passports hold more value (and memories) than the Compostela.
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Congratulations Paul.
Well done.
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Thanks Kay. Enjoy your holiday!
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Safe travels and I have really enjoyed reading about your days on the Camino!!! Holly West
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Thanks Holly
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Bravissimo Paul, well done, and thanks for the excellent blog, ciao, Luigi
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Thanks Luigi see you soon
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Hi Paul,I really enjoy your blogs. I am planning to do a Camino in either April or October next year.. Did you enjoy the Via de Plata or the del Norte more? I am 67 but still working so 30 – 35 days is about my maximum…
All the best, Don – Vancouver
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Hi Don, I’ve been thinking about that for a while and I’m planning to write s summary post soon. You know on balance I think enjoyed the Via de la Plata more. It has climbing but not as much as the Norte and some of tbe stages are a bit longer. It fan be very hot but April of October would be pleasant. I started in mid September which was still a bit hot.
I enjoyed the changes in scenery, architecture and culture as you traverse from south to north. It’s quieter or at least it was 3 years ago. Also there are some wonderful towns along the way such as Seville, Mérida, Zamora Caceres and Salamanca.
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Thanks very much for the feedback, Paul. You have done some great Caminos. I bought the book: In Praise of Walking by Shane O”Mara. Worth a read. A review of it was in the Guardian a month or so back. You may enjoy it.
My best regards. Don
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Thanks Don. I’ll have a look at it.
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Hello! I am lucky to have found your story through the link you added in the Camino Forum. I have thoroughly enjoyed following your path through the wonderful pictures and descriptions you have posted. Congratulations on such a wonderful journey.
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Thanks!
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I really enjoyed reading your blog. Nice pictures, too! Which guide book did you use for the Norte route?
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Thanks very much Rebecca. I used the ‘Village to Village Map Guide” mainly because it was very compact and easy to understand. I also downloaded their matching GPS data which is available for free on their website.
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It’s nice to see shots of the ‘centro storico’ if I am allowed to use a language other than Spanish. I’ve only ever seen photos of the cathedral.
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The old town of Santiago is very pretty, and full of tourists !
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