I had a nice stay at a B&B la Scaletta in Formello. It was much more comfortable walking today as the lady at the B&B had offered to wash my socks in the machine. They’ve been getting a bit like sandpaper from hand washing .
I’ve been delighted these last days by the amount of wild flowers along the paths.
This abandoned farmhouse has what looked like 4 dovecotes .
This area was sacred to the Etruscans and it did have a special feel to it.
I passed through Veio. This was one of Italy’s first proper cities . Although it’s close to Rome it was an Etruscan City. The Romans finally conquered the city in the 4th century BC.
Unfortunately the ruins were closed as are most museums in Italy on a Monday. Here’s an aerial photo from the information board.
The Etruscans built a irrigation system with tunnels cut through rock to channel river water for agriculture as well as to supply their towns.
This is an old water mill.
Next to the old millstone someone had left this basket behind full of fruit. – very strange
A final fill up of water from a classic Rome water fountain , albeit a bit worse for wear.
The route into Rome has changed since I last did it 3 years ago. The path is longer but it avoids a lot of the dangerous and busy streets
You wouldn’t know you were in the city on this path through Monte Mario Park .
I met two Australians and we had fun picking mulberries.
A few days earlier I’d picked some cherries- a bit immature but tasty!
Acanthus – as on the Corinthian column capital
Monte Mario was known as Mons Gaudi – the Hill of Hope – and was the first place pilgrims would get a view of St Peters
A fancy water fountain in Vatican City
On the way to the hostel I realised Id lost my phone!! I walked back and amazingly someone had found it and rang my wife who’s number was written inside the cover . She described me to him just as I was passing by! A miracle in crowded Rome
I headed for the same hostel I’d stayed at 3 years ago.
Here behind my washing you can see the bell tower of the basilica of Santa Cecilia
A young French couple with a baby arrived with this contraption. They’ve been walking for 8 months.
My boots have jut about had it
Before dinner there was a foot washing ceremony and then we were each asked to share some thoughts about our pilgrimage. I spoke about how few possessions you really need to live after 6 weeks with just a backpack full of belongings. Conversely some very simple things such as a rubber band become important in everyday life and you can get a tiny glimpse into what life for a refugee might be like.
I was asked to repeat this in English for some of the pilgrims who weren’t Italian and a French girl started to cry when she heard so it must have touched her in some way
Dinner at the hostel was wonderful in the company of other pilgrims and the volunteers that run the place.
Tomorrow I’m off to the Vatican to get my testimonium or certificate of completion of my pilgrimage.
Congratulations Paul, time for a rest?
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Yes Paul Just walking around Rome for a few days seeing the usual sites and wearing something other that boots!
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What a fabulous journey. Lots of miracles along the way. Thanks for sharing with daily snippets and gorgeous pictures. Congrats Paul
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Thanks Chris
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That is such an amazing story about your phone. Almost unbelievable. Congratulations on your fantastic achievement.
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Thanks Lyn. And I lost my GPS as well and managed to find it in the thick undergrowth !
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Yes, I remember reading about that also a few days ago. I am so enjoying your travels. I was in most of those areas in 2016 except I was doing it all by train.
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Thanks for your support, it’s always nice to have someone like a post
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Congratulations Paul! I am amazed at your stamina with combining multiple stages into one. It took me 47 days (last fall) to walk from Brenner Pass to Rome. I did not combine any stages – and in fact split one stage that had a lot of elevation gain, and the heat was unbearable. I too walked alone – and did not see any other pilgrims until the final days where the VRG joins with the VF. The state of your boots are a testament to all the hard walking. Spring definitely is a lot more colourful than the fall judging by the photos of the multitude of flowers along the way. Last summer / fall there was a widespread heat wave / drought and it’s gratifying to see that there has been rain and recovery this year.
So, another major walk on your palmarès ! Well done. !
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Thanks very much Lorraine. Perhaps you got to enjoy fruit along the way ? I picked figs, grapes and apples on a walk through Spain in the autumn .
I met a guy last night who did stages of up to 50km so I guess it’s all relative!
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There were apple orchards and vineyards laden with fruit between Bolzano and Termeno and pears were being harvested near Traghetto. I did see fig trees along the way, but no fruit. No berries either. Perhaps the drought last year may have had something to do with this.
Have taken to reading the other Aussie’s blog (Janet Leitch) to get my daily fix of virtual wandering! Although she only posts when there is WiFi…..
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I’ve been in contact with Janet – what a fantastic journey she’s undertaking !
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Paul,
I haven’t read the last couple of days of posts but realy enjoyed your blog. Great trip! I am thinking of doing the Via de Plata next April. I wondered how you would compare and rate both this and the Via de Plata. I experience the mud on my Portuguese Camino in April/May 2016….
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Don On the Via de la Plata you’ll find at least one pilgrim hostel in every town, people will wish you buen Camino as you pass by and you’ll meet lots of other pilgrims. This is complete different to the VRG which is little known , few pilgrims and almost no hostels . The VdlP has some interesting towns but the VRG is very rich in cultural history . The VRG has a lot more climbing at the start and finish with a big flat bit in the middle . The VdlP only gets a bit hilly towards the end
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Thanks very much, Paul. I found your VRG blog when I was checking out the VldP. All the best, Don
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Congratulations Paul! I’ve got a clean pair of shoes and a fresh change of clothes packed in the suitcase for Rome today! See you soon!! ❤️❤️❤️
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Congratulations Paul. I’ve really enjoyed reading all about your adventure.
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Thanks Kay – see you at the July monthly walk
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Thanks Larry
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Congrad Paul. I truly enjoy reading all about your journey on the VRG. I may very well try to make the journey myself in the Spring 2019. Your advice/opinion/ pictures left me with a very good feeling of what to expect. Take care and keep up the excellent reporting
All the very best from Québec
Luc
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PS … any advice would be welcome 🙂
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Hi Luc email me if you have any questions – pdgranville@gmail.com
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I bet you walked slowly to Rome to make the final day lady. It sounds like a lovely finish to your adventure. So proud of you Paul.
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Make the final day last I meant 😂
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It was a bit like that but on the other hand I didn’t want to miss out on a spot in the hostel which doesn’t take reservations !
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Make the final day last I meant 😂
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Congrats Dad! Very proud of you 🙂 Maybe we can do a walk together one day!
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Thanks Fran there are so many walks to choose from.
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Oh those flowers Paul! What wonderful things you’ve seen. I find it amazing to think that there are still Roman water fountains where you fill up your water bottle! I’ve so enjoyed your photos. I couldn’t see your blog on a regular basis as where I am the internet is unreliable but when I could I’ve enjoyed your photos and comments such a lot. What a miracle having your phone returned! It must be lovely to know Cathy is waiting in Rome for her adventurous husband!
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Bravo Paolo, auguri and well done, ciao Luigi V
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Thanks – that sounds like a King of France _’Luigi V’ Louis the 5th
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